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Salon Today Investigates Brazilian Keratin Services
By
Victoria Wurdinger
Added:
March 11, 2009
(The following report was featured in our sister publication, Salon Today magazine - March 2009. Due to the soaring level of interest in this topic, we decided to post it on ModernSalon.com as well.)
This emerging category has people talking. Salons, manufacturers, clients, consumer press and bloggers are all abuzz: “Where are the opportunities? What are the concerns?” This first in a series of SALON TODAY special reports goes In Depth to get the info and answers you need to form your own opinions on the most current—and most controversial—topics impacting beauty and business.
 Spend
a little time Googling “keratin services” or “Brazilian keratin
treatment” and you’ll find a dizzying amount of website postings. Sort
through enough of them and you’ll likely come to this conclusion:
Consumers are interested in the service because it promises to make
curly, frizzy and even damaged hair sleek, smooth and healthy looking.
With service tickets averaging $300-$600, and reaching as high as $800,
many salons want to meet this demand and offer keratin treatments. But
they are unsure how and where to find credible facts, products and
education.
To add to the confusion, online surfers will find an
assortment of strong claims, both positive and negative, with likely
exaggerations on both sides.
So where do you search next? If
you are a salon owner interested in adding Brazilian-type keratin
services to your menu, or if you have clients asking questions about
it, you need to dig deeper. Gather facts and education from
professional salon industry sources, then meet with your team to
discuss what you learn.
Associate Publisher’s Viewpoint | Controversy over chemical services and potential impact on clients and salon professionals is not new.
In the ’80s, salon profit smelled like perm solution, before shifting
to a formula of semi-, demi- and permanent color. Powder and gel nails
enhanced new service dollars, but also fresh concerns over fumes,
exposure and ingredients. Eyelash tinting and extensions have raised
eyebrows in recent years.
Throughout it all, the professional beauty industry has advocated for
the protection of its practitioners and their clients, but also for
solid education, fair dialogue and a balanced presentation of the facts
behind services that can help salons sustain and grow business.
In 20 years of covering professional beauty, I cannot recall a single
topic or product category generating such a strong—and strongly
divided—response as this new, keratin-based chemical service.
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Some salons have added the service, and are thrilled with the new dollars and new clients.
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Others won’t touch it—citing the formaldehyde, or more accurately,
the cosmetic-grade formalin, that preserves the keratin on the cuticle.
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A few, including Graciela Santiler-Nowik of Chicago, began researching the category when they first heard of
it. She used what she learned as an opportunity to not only bring in
new business, but also to upgrade her ventilation and staff safety
procedures for all chemical services.
The bottom line is there are multiple opinions and companies swirling
about this new category. Insiders at America’s Beauty Show (ABS)
estimate 12 or more companies will exhibit the category at their event
at the end of March. One of these, a leader in the segment, claims
6,000 salons across every U.S. state and 25 countries carry their line.
Ultimately, you need to understand keratin treatments. Follow-up at
industry trade shows, contact peer salons you trust, and share your
thoughts with SALON TODAY Editor Stacey Soble and me.
Michele Musgrove
Associate Publisher & Creative Director
MODERN SALON Media
mmusgrove@vancepublishing.com |
What It Is, Where It StartedKeratin
treatments to smooth hair began in rural Brazil more than 10 years ago.
Someone discovered that certain preservative chemicals seemed to link
keratin to hair, resulting in frizz-free locks that lasted for months.
This got the attention of Brazilian cosmetic manufacturers, who began
testing and formulating.
Researchers discovered that when the
cuticle is open, the protein keratin can be introduced, along with
cosmetic-grade formaldehyde, which is known to cross-link proteins in
hair. Then, the cuticle is sealed with multiple-pass flatironing at 450
degrees. During the flatironing, the heat can cause fumes to be
released. This step—the fumes—is the center of the keratin treatment
confusion and controversy.
Facts and FictionAccording to
Doug Schoon, a chemist and president of Schoon Scientific in Dana
Point, California, any keratin treatment product that supposedly
contains formaldehyde actually uses an ingredient called formalin.
Formaldehyde is a gas and, as such, can’t be a liquid, so could not be
added as a cosmetic ingredient.
Schoon explains that formalin
is created when dry formaldehyde gas is reacted with water to create a
new and different substance called methylene glycol.
“Methylene
glycol is a totally different chemical with completely different
properties and characteristics,” he says. “For years, this name mistake
has been made around the world by scientists, doctors and regulators,
until last December when formalin’s name was officially changed in the
International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) dictionary.”
“When
you heat formalin,” Schoon adds, “it can convert back into the original
form and release a small amount of formaldehyde gas in the air.”
Schoon
is currently working with a manufacturer to measure the amount of
formaldehyde fumes stylists may be exposed to when using flatirons with
formalin-containing products. He says it’s possible cosmetologists who
perform service after service may be exposed to excessive levels, but
very likely a source-capture ventilation system can reduce those
levels, effectively removing the gas from the air before it’s inhaled.
Online
postings about formaldehyde being an irritant and potential carcinogen
are correct. It’s associated with nasal and brain cancer, according to
the National Cancer Institute. However, most posters aren’t aware it’s
a gas released during some keratin treatments, and the FDA does not
regulate the amount of formalin in cosmetics, making the discussions of
“legal amounts” in bottles moot. Regulation occurs through the
Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA), which has strict
guidelines for maximum allowable worker exposure to formaldehyde gas.
Food
and Drug Association (FDA) spokesperson, Suzan Curzan, e-mails: “The
FDA doesn’t have specific regulations that prohibit or restrict the use
of formaldehyde [formalin] in cosmetic preparations, and is unaware of
safety data indicating that Brazilian keratin products pose a health
hazard to consumers, under the labeled conditions of use.”
That’s
why, for instance, the FDA takes no issue with nail hardeners
containing up to 5-percent formalin. These products are more than a
“coating,” says Schoon. “Formalin is reactive to proteins and creates a
chemical link or bridge with them.”
Like the second step of a
perm process, keratin treatments with formalin don’t break bonds in the
hair, but do “fix” the keratin in place, semi-permanently. Whether
ingredients other than formalin act identically is unclear.
Second Generation ProductsThe
success—and confusion—about Brazilian-style keratin products opened the
door for a slew of “formalin-free” formulations, currently calling
themselves “formaldehyde-free.” But keratin alone cannot create the
desired, long lasting, “frizz-busting” results. So the theory is that
some “free” formulas simply use different chemical compounds. Chemists
say they can’t be sure if the “free” products create a potentially
hazardous gas or not when heated, unless they test the surrounding air
during use.
Nine years ago, QOD Cosmetic, a dominant cosmetic
firm in Brazil, was one of the first companies to create a
professionally produced Brazilian keratin product. According to Niko
Johnson, CEO of San Francisco-based QOD USA, under EU and international
labeling standards, his brand could claim to be “free,” but doesn’t.
“It’s
not that complicated to get other compounds to transform into
formaldehyde,” says Johnson. “They convert when you flatiron the hair.
Any Brazilian-style keratin treatment product sold to stylists should
require identical protocols and precautions, whether it’s called ‘free’
or not.”
According to Johnson, all currently marketed Brazilian-type keratin treatments either:
- Use formalin.
- Use a compound that reacts in a similar manner when heated (this includes his brands).
- Contain keratin and incorporates flatironing, but has no chemicals similar to formalin, thus doesn’t last very long.
The lesson? Know which of the three types you have, because there can be huge differences in results and effects.
Safety FirstMark Garrison,
who offers what he calls the “real deal” at his namesake Manhattan
salon, says you need formalin to get the hair straight, and laments
lack of transparency.
“You need 450-degree irons for Brazilian
keratin treatments to work,” adds Garrison, whose stylists use canister
masks and perform the service in a custom-ventilated area.
Read BKT: In Depth, In the Salon for Graciela Santiler-Nowik's experience with providing keratin treatments.
Omar Roth, co-owner of O Salon in Greenwich, Connecticut, worried about health effects and after due diligence, selected a “free” brand.
“It
removes about 70-percent of frizz and wave and doesn’t last quite as
long as the original formulas, but the results are still amazing,” says
Roth, whose former printing-plant salon space has industrial
ventilation. “We do about eight treatments a week now.”
J.B. Veltman,
who owns an eponymous salon in Coconut Grove, Florida, says some brands
he tested lasted just until the next shampoo. He now educates for a
company that openly shares the percent of formalin in the product.
“I’ve
been using it for years in a well-ventilated studio salon with a
de-fumer at the station,” says Veltman, who along with his clients,
wears a mask during the treatment. “No matter which brand you use, the
same precautions apply.”
 | An Association Weighs In
The Professional Beauty Association
recently issued an Industry Advisory on Brazilian-type keratin
treatments. To read it in its entirety, go to www.probeauty.org |
Choosing a BrandIf
you’re shopping for a keratin treatment line, common sense mandates
working with a reputable distributor or manufacturer and avoiding eBay
or other online-only options. Request and require a Materials Safety
Data Sheet (MSDS) so you can read the hazards identification section.
Ask your vendor about specific ingredients, then research them yourself
in a cosmetics ingredients dictionary or online.
Next, perform
product tests in a well-ventilated area. Use gloves and a canister mask
for formalin-containing product tests (particulate masks aren’t
effective with gases). Compare results to expectations. Call other
salon-users to discuss pros and cons.
Vent, Vent, VentWhether
you choose a “free” brand or not, professionals stress appropriate
ventilation, including a source-capture system—fans don’t help a
stylist three stations away. Use gloves and masks.
Peter
Garzone, owner and president of ProSalon distributorship in Cranston,
Rhode Island, says an article in Allure initially made him happy he
avoided keratin treatments. Now, he wishes he’d started distributing
the formalin-based product he chose sooner.
“If you’re
concerned, wear a passive air monitoring badge that measures
formaldehyde in the air,” says Garzone. “Ours tested at 0.25 parts per
million.”
According to OSHA spokesperson Ted Fitzgerald, the
maximum, permissible formaldehyde concentration in an atmosphere to
which workers are exposed is 0.75 parts per million (ppm) over an
eight-hour period—or 2 ppm for 15 minutes.
SNAPSHOT: SURVEY SAYS ... | As
part of our report on keratin services, SALON TODAY conducted a brief
online survey of a sample of salon owners from our ProView Panel.
Fifty-two owners participated. Here are the results:
 What have they heard?
Nearly two-thirds (65%) are familiar with the term keratin treatment or Brazilian keratin service. The other 35% were not.
How/where did they hear about Brazilian Keratin Services?
(Choose all that apply)
- Trade magazine: 53%
- From a sales person: 29%
- At an industry show/event: 26%
- From another salon professional: 26%
- From a client: 18%
- From consumer press: 18%
 How many are offering it, and who is considering adding it?
- More than one-third (37%) are currently performing keratin treatments in their salons.
- Another
29% say have done or plan to do research to explore the possibility of
adding Brazilain keratin services to their salon menus.
- Another third (34%) say no, they are not offering it, and not currently exploring the idea of adding it.
 Are they aware of any controversy surrounding the service?
- 44% said yes, they knew there was some controversy regarding Brazilian keratin services.
- 56% (including 35% who had not heard of the service) were unaware of any challenges.
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Usage IssuesAs
a matter of practice, all salons should have well-ventilated storage
rooms and avoid placing cross-reactive chemicals near one another.
Formalin can be explosive in the presence of hydrogen peroxide. Sodium
chloride, salt and ammonia are all incompatible with formalin, which is
why coloring the hair before formalin-based keratin treatments is
recommended.
“When you discuss the service with clients, talk about hair condition, lifestyle, expectations,” says Denise Kingsley, a texture specialist who owns High Tech Hair in Denver.
Because
formalin-based keratin treatments do not break bonds, users say their
true power is in transforming damaged, frizzy or wavy hair. Kingsley
adds that it’s not the best choice for healthy, super-curly
African-American hair, but if that hair type has been previously
relaxed or heavily colored—the more porous it is—the better the service
will work and the longer it’ll last. Another must-know: You can’t use a
shampoo that contains sodium chloride, which breaks down formalin-based
chemical links and possibly others, reversing results.
The Choice is YoursHundreds
if not thousands of high-end salons are offering keratin treatments
because clients are clamoring for it. Many say the results it
produces—a semi-permanent way to smooth wave and banish frizz—has
become an irreplaceable business builder.
Those who aren’t
ready to bring in the category, or refuse to do so, say they are
sticking with alternate service options to cater to their clientele:
from flatironing and blow outs to traditional relaxing and Japanese
thermal straightening. The latter two break bonds and use chemicals
that require their own precautions. Some manufacturers and salons are
capitalizing on the questions surrounding formalin-based keratin
products to promote these alternatives.
The best advice from
all industry and category experts is for salon owners to do their own
homework. Make an informed business decision for your salon, your team,
your clients. Evaluate and assess your ventilation system and safety
procedures for all areas and services offered in the salon. Do what you
need to do to protect the health of your business.
Fast Facts About Brazilian Keratin Services | What it is:
A chemical process service to smooth curly, frizzy hair. Includes the
application and absorption of a liquid solution throughout the hair.
Heat (450 degree flatironing) is applied to activate, and seal keratin
to the hair.
What you can charge: The service can command up to $800; the average price ranges from $300 to $600, depending on length and density of hair.
Time it takes: Most
technicians complete the service within 90 minutes. Some salons have
stylists “double up” to expedite the flatironing stage, depending on
the length and texture.
Permanent or temporary: Designed to be long-lasting without changing the physical structure of the hair. Fades over time with shampooing.
How long it lasts: The
straightening, frizz-reducing effects are estimated to last up to four
months, depending on the client’s hair texture, condition and home
maintenance routine.
Do: Perform color services before processing keratin treatments.
Don’t: Shampoo hair for three or four days after processing
Know that:
Formalin, a cosmetic-grade solution of formaldehyde, is what binds and
preserves the keratin (a protective protein) on the cuticle, and is
what creates the long-lasting effect.
Always: Ask your
distributor or manufacturer for an MSDS on the product. Be suspicious
of any product that does not plainly list its ingredients on the label.
Insist: On training, education and proper ventilation systems.
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